Exploring the New Territories Hong Kong

The weather was cold, but dry and sunny. I took the MTR via the East Rail Line into the hills of the New Territories, north of Kowloon. My first stop was the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery, located near Sha Tin MTR station. I exited at Exit B and walked toward the Sha Tin Government offices, which only took about 10 minutes. This place is full of contradictions: firstly, there are actually 12,800 Buddhas, and secondly, it is not a monastery since no monks reside there.

I found the beginning of the trail behind the building, in an area that resembled overgrown woodland. A sign warned me about wild boars and people impersonating monks for money (since it’s not a working monastery, there are no real monks here). The trail, unexpectedly, was lined with golden statues of Buddha. It was incredibly steep, with 431 steps winding up the mountainside. Along the way to the lower level of the complex, I passed about 500 unique statues. While the site feels ancient, it’s actually a modern structure built in the 1950s.

There is a nine-storey pagoda that I had hoped to climb, but it was closed on the day of my visit. Instead, I explored the main building, which houses around 12,800 Buddha statues—including the mummified body of Yuet Kai, known as the Diamond Indestructible Body of Yuet Kai. I made my way to the upper level via another small staircase and was delighted to find a hall filled with colourful statues. In a small outdoor area, I searched for the Buddha presiding over the year I was born and also discovered my Chinese Zodiac sign (I’m a rooster—what sign are you?).

Leaving the monastery, I walked back down the hill into Sha Tin and took the MTR to Tai Wo Tang for a quick coffee break in Kowloon City. Although Kowloon City isn’t very touristy, I enjoy it for its many excellent coffee shops. I chose Tai Wo Tang Cafe, a quirky spot styled like an old Chinese medicine shop. My quick stop turned into a leisurely coffee and croissant break, fueling me for my next adventure in the New Territories of Hong Kong.

My photographer had discovered a very Instagrammable spot and was eager to see it in person (I’m usually sceptical about these things). Tucked beneath a flyover is the tranquil Nan Lian Garden, a hidden gem often overlooked by visitors. Fun fact: I’ve visited twice and discovered something new each time. The garden is free to enter and offers plenty of places to explore. I started by visiting a building filled with small wooden replicas of pagodas and prayer halls from across China and neighbouring regions. Although my Chinese isn’t great, I believe these structures were built without a single nail.

I returned to the garden and climbed a small staircase that took me across the road into Chi Lin Nunnery. Most of the buildings were open to visitors, but I was especially excited to see the Lotus Pond Garden. I love eating lotus roots and flowers whenever I can. The ponds were filled with flowers in a variety of colours, but my favourites were the two-toned ones. The wooden buildings around the lotus garden were topped with golden orbs, and the building at the back led to the main hall, which was filled with beautiful golden statues of Buddha.

I walked back across the bridge and down into the gardens, which are designed in the Tang-era style. Fun fact: If you visit in April, the Chinese Laurel trees are in bloom and have a surprisingly pungent armpit scent. Some paths were closed during my visit, so I explored the small zen gardens of the rockery building with intricate gravel patterns. It’s a scene I always love, especially after visiting Japan a few years ago.

My route took me outside, toward a pond filled with large, colourful koi swimming in front of a beautiful wooden pavilion. I paused here, struck by how otherworldly the garden feels—traditional and tranquil, yet surrounded by modern skyscrapers. I continued along the path to the Pavilion of Absolute Perfection. The golden building shimmered on a small islet, accessible only by a striking red bridge. Sadly, visitors (and dinosaurs!) can’t cross anymore, so I admired the view from afar.