A Rainy Day in Hong Kong: M+ Museum & Sensational Sky100

A morning of heavy rain turned my plans upside down, creating the perfect excuse for a rainy day in Hong Kong filled with art, skyline views, and unexpected discoveries. Taking the MTR from Causeway Bay to Kowloon Station, I got hopelessly lost searching for the right exit—never trust Google Maps for MTR exits! Eventually, I arrived at the impressive M+ Art Gallery in West Kowloon, where my photographer had discovered the Picasso for Asia exhibit. Entry costs $190 HKD (£19). While I wouldn’t call myself the most cultured dinosaur, I was enticed by the promise of blue paintings. The gallery, with its ever-changing exhibitions, was the perfect place to start my unplanned adventure.

I appreciated Picasso’s work not only for his mastery, but also for his deliberate choice to evoke childlike innocence in many of his pieces. The gallery’s layout was clever, guiding me through Picasso’s art in chronological order. His earliest works featured animals, and I was especially drawn to a striking horse painting. There was one particular brushstroke that curved just above the horse’s mane, using a gradient of grey and white. It brought the creature to life with a sense of motion and freedom that captivated me.

Next came the artist’s famed Blue Period, where his paintings powerfully expressed the emotions and struggles he faced. Personally, I think blue is a cheerful colour, but Picasso clearly saw it differently. The Rose Period works felt a bit unsettling to me, so I didn’t linger. Instead, I gravitated toward the lively and colourful Cubist era—surreal and playful, these paintings are fun precisely because everyone sees something different in them. As a dinosaur, I often struggle to decipher human art, but the Cubist pieces made the experience more enjoyable.

I was amazed to find a painting—Portrait de Nusch Eluard (1937)—that looked uncannily like my photographer. I couldn’t believe they’d never mentioned posing for Picasso! His distinctive portrait style was fascinating to me, though my photographer’s personal favourite was Still Life with Pedestal Table.

After finishing the Picasso exhibit, I explored the rest of the museum. There were some impressive examples of modern Asian art, though a few pieces were downright disturbing. I was pleased to see some of Wei Liu’s oil paintings on display, as I’ve always admired their work. My last indoor stop was the Tokyo exhibition, which showcased architectural marvels like the Nakagin Capsule Tower and Kiyotomo Sushi Bar. I was fascinated by the tiny capsule rooms—hard to believe people actually lived there! Unit A806 was displayed in its entirety, and peering inside, the retro buttons and cabinets made it feel like stepping into a 1970s sci-fi film.

I braved the weather and stepped out onto the roof garden to take in the view of Hong Kong Island. Although a free playscape exhibit was available, the rain had left everything too soggy to enjoy, so I simply wandered around before heading back inside. After a full morning of exploration, I made my way to Halfway Coffee in Mong Kok for a well-earned rest before continuing my West Kowloon adventure.

While my photographer indulged in some shopping before sunset, I took a nap in the infamous handbag of doom as they explored the vast Ocean Centre mall. We accidentally exited Ocean Terminal the wrong way, but stumbled upon a breathtaking sunset on our way to Sky100. Although I’d originally planned to watch the sunset from the top, I’m glad fate had other plans.

When we reached the 100th floor of the ICC, the crowds had thinned, offering a spectacular 360-degree view of Hong Kong. The clear weather let me see for miles. Watching the city lights flicker on was magical—I even caught the Victoria Harbour light show from above and saw billboards dancing across the skyline. As I wandered Sky100, I couldn’t resist posing for photos at a noodle bar and on a motorbike—Asia is full of these quirky photo ops!