Even Taipei’s rain can’t wash away its hidden treasures. My guide in Northern Taiwan mentioned it rains about 200 days a year. Although I had a few sunny days, the rain eventually caught up with me. Raindrops tapped on neon signs as scooters zipped by, filling the city with sound under grey skies. It made a great backdrop for my morning coffee on the windowsill in my hotel. Auntie Bella (my umbrella), my photographer, and I decided to change our plans. Instead of the zoo and gondola to Maokong, we spent the day at the National Palace Museum. Exploring Taiwan’s culture and history indoors was just as exciting—and drier—than a mountain trip!
I didn’t expect the National Palace Museum to be so far from central Taipei. All the trains on this line run above ground, which I loved because I could see more of the city. The red line took me from Da’an to Shilin in about 20 minutes. After leaving the train station, I hopped on the R30 bus for a 10-minute ride to the museum. My EasyCard made travelling simple, just a quick tap in and out of the MRT and bus. While I think the bus is easiest, you can also walk from the station if you prefer.
Entry to the National Palace Museum costs $350 NTD (£8.50), but admission is free for anyone under 17, people with disabilities, and one carer. I love how accessible art and culture are for everyone visiting the museum. The National Palace Museum offers several accessibility features to ensure comfort and ease for all visitors, including ramps and elevators to accommodate everyone’s needs. The museum also provides seats throughout each floor and exhibition so you can rest as often as needed. The National Palace Museum turned 100 this year, and there are special exhibitions on display which change often. My photographer and I didn’t know what to expect due to the last-minute decision to visit.
Inside, I chose to begin exploring on the third floor and work my way down. I discovered the celebrated Jadeite Cabbage sculpture, a masterpiece of craftsmanship. The cabbage is a national treasure as its name, báicài (白菜), sounds like bǎicài (百财) or ‘hundred wealth.’ Ancient weapons, bronze pots, ink stones, and jade sculptures filled the exhibit rooms. Another highlight was the meat-shaped stone, resembling braised pork belly. Asian culture fascinated me as it was totally different from European culture in the same period. Especially the intricate bronze and jade pieces. A crowded room of European Rococo pieces caught my eye, but seemed less exciting, so I headed downstairs.
The second floor had an extensive ceramics exhibit with all manner of decorative bowls, vases and plates. A small room containing an exhibit called The Splendour of Dream of the Red Chamber was my favourite. The visual display is inspired by an 18th-century book about the joys and struggles of a noble family during the High Qing era. The room brought to life every Chinese Period drama my photographer has watched on their quest to learn Mandarin. The simplest of everyday objects were designed in the most ornate ways. My favourite was a soap dish with an intricate dragon design.
I also enjoyed The Epitome of Aesthetics, a new media art show that brought ancient Chinese art to life. It was a delight to see butterflies fluttering out of an ancient vase. Walking through a dark tunnel, I initially thought it was empty. Suddenly, it lit up to make you feel like you were under the sea, surrounded by fish. There was a small art exhibit nearby, and I was curious to see what I would find. My favourite was the ‘Thousand Li of Rivers and Mountains’ painting. Its magnificent landscape stretched across a long scroll, drawing me into a different era. Each exhibit told its own story, making my visit to the National Palace Museum even more interesting. I really liked the seats in this area because I could sit and take my time looking for hidden details in the artwork.
The first floor had lots of Buddhist religious artefacts in a dark red room. I found the room to be rather emotional, and it affected me in a strange way. Another room was filled with furniture from the Qing Palace, which was once central to life in Prince Gong’s (Yixin) mansion in Beijing. Many pieces of furniture were arranged in a way to show what daily life was like during the Qing Dynasty from 1644-1911. The Qing palace furniture was incredible, though many of the chairs appeared to be incredibly uncomfortable. I was surprised to learn that the Chinese royal family ruled until quite recently.
The final exhibit I visited was about the human body from a traditional Chinese medicine perspective. I liked seeing this because it offered a totally different view of medicine compared to what I’m used to in Europe.
An iced Sicilian lemon coffee and a mille crepe cake gave us a boost as we planned our next stop. The cafe in the National Palace Museum was simple but had a great view over the gardens. If the weather hadn’t been so bad, I would have probably headed back to Shilin to sample some of the street food. Taiwanese weather is really similar to British weather because it can change multiple times each day. My umbrella turned into my best friend because even in the rain, Taipei was still humid, so I didn’t need a coat. I would love to say Taiwan has a rainy season and a dry season, but it rains a lot all year round. The best thing about the rain is how green the country is, but I timed my visit with the Plum rains, which were very heavy, very random rain showers.
When the weather cleared, I went outside to see the National Palace Museum from afar. The building looked like a grand palace above the green hills, almost floating against the landscape. Its traditional Chinese design, with elegant tiers and detailed decorations, stood out against the natural backdrop. I walked to the main road to see the large ornate archway, called Tien-Hsia-Wei-Kung Archway (天下為公牌樓). We weren’t sure of its English name, but it’s also known as the Tan Xia Wei Gong Memorial Tower on the north side of the museum.
My next stop was the beautiful Zhishan Garden (至善園), a surprise stop as I had no idea this place existed. I was shocked to find something so beautiful in the shadows of the National Palace Museum. It was a beautiful, traditional Chinese Garden and a perfect place to stop and reflect on the things I saw inside the museum. The garden is in a traditional style influenced by the Song and Ming Dynasties, who built the Great Wall and Forbidden City in Beijing, China (it’s another place on my never-ending bucket list).
The garden was free to enter through a moon gate, and it was the most peaceful garden I’ve ever visited. A covered walkway went around the garden and lakes, leading to small pavilions. At the bottom, a small waterfall carried water from the lake out to the countryside. My favourite spot was a two-story wooden pavilion with great views of the garden and the hills. It was a calm way to end a day full of learning about Taiwan’s history at the National Palace Museum.
The museum and the gardens were incredibly well set out, making it really accessible for everyone. Each floor of the museum had many seats, and the exhibit areas were big enough for those with walking aids and wheelchairs to move around easily. Zhishan Gardens were flat and had many covered seating areas. The bus stop in the Museum grounds was also covered and very close to the entrance, so there was no worry about doing a long walk to get inside. We visited midweek and found it to be really quiet; there was no need to book in advance, but weekends may be different.
Taking a different bus through the rolling hills of suburban Taipei, I headed to Jinnian Road MRT station. From here, I took the brown line to Nanjing Fuxing and changed trains to the green line before reaching Songshan MRT. My evening adventure turned out to be a lot more exciting than eating my way around another night market. As I transitioned from the scholarly intensity of the museum, with its exquisite artefacts and captivating stories, to the vibrant atmosphere of the Mazu festival, a new world of exploration unfolded before me. During my visit, the local temple was beginning to celebrate Mazu’s birthday. Mazu, more affectionately known as Ah-Ma (阿媽 or grandma in Chinese). I visited the stunning A-Ma Temple in Macau in January, and I couldn’t believe I had stumbled upon an even more beautiful temple.
Outside Ciyou Temple, there was a stage with a free Taiwanese Opera performance, which reminded me a lot of Cantonese Opera. I once watched a free show in Singapore and was surprised by how much I enjoyed it. Flower-covered floats drove around the roads, leaving a lovely scent of lilies. Inside, the temple was filled with colourful and detailed lanterns hanging from the red walls. Incense drifted through the corridors as people prayed to Mazu and other gods. Ciyou is one of many Taiwanese temples that are just as beautiful inside as outside. The best time to visit is around sunset, when the temple lights up after dark.
My stomach guided me into the Raohe Street Night Market (饒河夜市) in search of a Michelin-starred dessert. Anyone who knows my photographer will know about their love for anything that is peanut-flavoured and counts as dessert (just read my Northern Taiwan blog). Mochi Baby was the highlight of the Taipei trip in their eyes, and the chewy mochi covered in fine peanut dust with just a hint of sesame flavour made the difficult search for the stall in the night market 100% worth it. The mochi is vegetarian-friendly. It is opposite a shop named Don’t Miss It; ironically, if you walk past this, you will have missed the mochi stall.
Another place which was highly recommended to me was 福州世祖胡椒餅. This is another Michelin-starred stall selling Fuzhou Ancestor Pepper (pork) buns. Also, the Japanese cake stall, 和の屋脆皮雞蛋燒, sold the cutest cakes, which were incredibly similar to an Egg Puff in Hong Kong. I was pleased someone warned my photographer about the sheer amount of 廣東燒鴨 – a type of Cantonese-style roast duck hanging in the stalls and restaurant windows, and the amount of meat being cooked. For plant-based travellers, Raohe offers vegetarian and vegan options. My favourites were stinky tofu and vegetable dumplings, many of the stall staff understand basic English, making food accessible for everyone.
I left the night market and went to Miacucina, a vegetarian restaurant near Taipei 101, for dinner (maybe it was a second dinner). The place was really busy, and I was lucky to get a table without a reservation. While enjoying my meal, I thought about the day and realised that Taiwan showed me how detours can lead to incredible places. Being open to the unexpected, from rainy museum visits to lively night markets, made my trip much more interesting than if I had stuck to a strict plan. This flexibility helped me find hidden gems and really experience Taipei, reminding me that the best adventures often happen when we just explore.
