During my time in Siem Reap, I didn’t have any expectations of the area, but I was excited to explore it without a tour guide. Finally, I had a base for exploring after what felt like an eternity of moving hotels daily. Siem Reap had the laid-back vibe I was hoping for, which was a complete contrast to the hectic city of Phnom Penh. Everywhere was so green, the colours mismatched and the décor was eclectic.
After breakfast, I headed to town to explore the busier areas without the crowds. Unfortunately, my hotel was too far from the town centre to walk. However, the hotel had transport waiting outside for us, and I got a tuk-tuk (more of a motorbike trailer) into town. I always enjoy these types of transport, and it’s worth it to cool down in the relentless Cambodian heat. The driver was a friendly Cambodian who helped me choose where to go first and advised the walking route I should take.
My first stop was the Royal Independence Gardens, a small but beautifully curated park in front of the Royal Residence. Even though I would have loved to go inside, it was closed to the public. Despite being a relatively small area, it was one of the nicest gardens I have ever been to, and what’s more, it was free to enter! The centre of the gardens had a white direction stone which displayed the distance to Phnom Penh. I couldn’t believe I had only travelled 312km as it felt much farther while driving through the countryside. The paths were adorned with green and gold lampposts and exquisitely detailed statues of Khmer soldiers. However, my favourite part of the garden was the incredibly detailed gate, if you look closely, you might spot Buddha in the right panel.
The King Master Statue and Yey Tep Shrine were incredibly crowded when I visited, even though they were both in the centre of a roundabout. I didn’t go too close because the crowds and traffic made me uneasy. Instead, I visited Preah Ang Chek Preah Ang Chorm Shrine next to the Royal Gardens. The path to the shrine was lined with stalls selling fruit, lotus flowers and incense. I could hear the sound of drums beating, and people chanting and praying to the two Angkorian Princess statues. They were also releasing small birds. This shrine is considered one of the holiest in Cambodia. But I didn’t enter because of the religious festival that was taking place at that time. I was lucky to visit during the 15-day-long Pchum Ben Festival. During this festival, Cambodians honour their deceased relatives by leaving offerings at shrines and temples. This festival is usually held in September or October, and the most important days are the final three, where the ancient temples are filled with people remembering their loved ones. It was a unique and enlightening experience that gave me insight into the deep traditions of Buddhism, spirituality, and ancestral worship in Cambodia.
Upon leaving the gardens, I decided to wander along the stalls and walk towards the river. Luckily, the stalls were situated under the huge trees creating a comfortable and shady atmosphere. The stalls were filled with fruit, lotus flowers and other offerings. The scent of jasmine from the stalls created a beautiful aroma in the background. As I was browsing through the stalls, I came across an elderly man who was reading fortunes, and a woman who had four cages filled with hundreds of birds. However, I was taken aback when I stumbled upon a stall selling fried tarantulas on a stick. I had heard rumours about insects being a delicacy in Southeast Asia. Still, I wasn’t prepared to see it on display.
The area was overflowing with animals. I particularly enjoyed watching the flying foxes (bats) doing an upside-down snooze in the trees. They come to life at dusk and fill the skies, which would have been a sight to behold. I also spotted a mischievous monkey doing a covert operation to steal the delicious fruit offerings from the stalls leading up to the shrine. Interestingly, the area had employed a person with a brush to chase the monkeys away from the food. Nevertheless, I saw the monkey successfully grab an orange and narrowly miss out on a pineapple.
I left the Royal Gardens and walked towards the path along the Siem Reap River, passing by a large stone statue of a goddess on a roundabout. The riverside walk was shaded and peaceful, allowing me to enjoy my stroll without worrying about traffic. Banyan trees lined the walkway, which was occasionally interrupted by a jetty or a seat in a shady spot. This area is home to a few small luxury hotels and the Raffles Hotel, making it a much better location than I was staying in.
While walking along the riverside, I came across a pair of stone elephant statues and a display of vintage cars, some of which could be rented for city tours. I was thrilled to see the vehicles, which were all well-maintained and in incredible condition. I continued along the riverside until I reached the Wat Preah Prom Rath, a stunning Buddhist temple complex. Unfortunately, this was also where my photographer was targeted by an unfriendly person once again, despite our efforts to avoid such situations, including exploring with a group of people.
An insistent taxi driver tried to make us walk the wrong way, following us to pressure us into paying an exorbitant fare to be driven around the corner. Thankfully, a tuk-tuk driver noticed us and gave us a free ride into the old market area. We arranged for the driver to wait for us and take us back to the hotel, which made me feel better knowing we would get back safely without being ripped off.
The tuk-tuk driver recommended a Mexican restaurant near the old market which I immediately decided to go in to take a break from exploring. I ordered an iced coffee, a delicious combination of an iced mocha and a chocolate ice cream. The menu had many vegetarian options, including Mexican staples, pasta, and pizza. Across the street, there was another restaurant called Elia Greek Kitchen, which also boasted an incredible vegetarian menu. Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time to visit it.
I spent the next two hours wandering around the Old Market, a maze of indoor and outdoor stalls selling everything from fruit to jewellery. Exploring the small stalls filled with artwork was particularly fascinating. However, it saddened me to see how much the stall holders were struggling post-COVID. One seller was so desperate to make a sale that they gave me 13 postcards/small paintings for only $1. My photographer bought a couple of scarves and a bag for $5, and that’s how we ended up with a hitchhiking cockroach (the full story is in my 2023 review post).
I walked along Pub Street before leaving, but it was surprisingly empty. It could have been the heat or maybe I was too early. I decided to head back to the hotel to escape the heat. The tuk-tuk driver took us on a scenic route so we could see more of the town. I spent a lazy afternoon in the hotel. I had a big day exploring Angkor Wat planned for the following day (I’ll be posting a separate blog about my day in the temples).
Had a certain photographer, who I travel with (I’m not mentioning any names), not been feeling extra lazy on our final day in Cambodia we definitely would have gone and visited the bomb-sniffing rats. They look adorable and are very intelligent. If I return to Cambodia, I’ll go to meet them.
In the evening, I enjoyed delicious vegetarian food and traditional Khmer dancing. The dancing portrayed many stories about Khmer life, beliefs, and history. I found the costumes and dancing incredible, especially how the performers could bend. I loved this show and I’m glad I got to see it because there aren’t many opportunities to enjoy Khmer dancing anymore.
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