Embarking on a journey can be invigorating and even makes rising early for breakfast manageable. It is a small price to pay for the excitement to come. Country number 18 was calling, and I was ready to answer. Another 5:30 am alarm was the only fitting way to end my time in Vietnam, the country of early morning adventures. After an early breakfast, I retrieved my backpack and checked out of the hotel. I was glad to have a hotel conveniently located on the pier, making it easy to board my boat.
At 7 am, the speedboat headed out onto the Mekong Delta. The silence of the early morning was broken only by the sound of water splashing on the side of the boat. Bleary-eyed, I watched as the scenery changed; many small villages and fish farms lined the river, and surprisingly, there was a lot of traffic on the water. Chau Doc is about an hour sailing from the Vietnamese-Cambodian border.
I arrived at a small stilted building that appeared to float on the water, where I had to wave goodbye to my passport and begin the anxious wait to receive my visa. The wait was made better by the view of the water, and time passed by nicely. The boat’s crew then advised we had to travel a short distance upriver before being reunited with our documents.
I walked the final few metres of Vietnam before passing into Cambodia on foot. My first sight of Cambodia was an ornate gold shrine surrounded by old concrete buildings which made up the border control area. The visa process was surprisingly simple, even with a language barrier. $40, a photograph and fingerprint scans were all the humans needed to receive the sought-after stamp in my passport and tourist visa (collecting passport stamps is my favourite).
Back on the boat, I received a small bag of snacks comprising two of the world’s tiniest bananas, cake and rice crackers. The bananas were a source of amusement for way longer than I care to admit (don’t worry, I did eat them, eventually). And the pandan cake was delicious; it took me back to a fond memory of Singapore.
My knowledge of Cambodia was sparse; guess who bought a guidebook and didn’t read any of it! I was surprised to see how the landscape changed considerably in Cambodia compared to the rice fields and coloured houses of Vietnam. I enjoyed spotting glistening temples and monasteries hidden among the greenery, which seemed to go on forever. Small clusters of houses teetering on the water’s edge broke up the greenery from fields and woodland. Villagers were going about their daily tasks of fishing, cleaning and herding oxen, but they all took the time to do a friendly wave as we zoomed past on the boat.
I was lucky to be on a boat with indoor seating and a small covered outdoor area. I tried both seating areas and preferred the outdoor area because it had a wonderful cool breeze. The outdoor bench was the perfect spot to do a mid-morning snooze, but I didn’t want to miss the passing scenery. A giant gold reclining Buddha peeked out from behind a small forested area, glistening in the sun. The Buddha was a beautiful sight but very elusive as there is no information about this anywhere (I even scoured Google Maps). Cambodia is a country filled with juxtapositions; poor communities surround ornate statues, whilst impressive mansions lie empty on the opposite side of the river. Cambodia has numerous building sites and factories along the river; the country is still growing following years of civil unrest. The Mekong River is the centre of life in this rural area of Cambodia. I enjoyed watching the humans fishing from the side of tiny wooden boats. I’d love to know how they balance themselves without falling into the river when they throw the net.
I spotted a Ferris wheel on the riverside before the greenery slowly gave way to an urban landscape, peeping out from behind some small islands. Sadly, the rainy season descended rapidly, and I had to seek refuge inside the boat. Luckily, I managed to find a window seat so I could enjoy the ever-changing view. The sheer number of skyscrapers in Phnom Penh surprised me; I expected Phnom Penh to be more like Can Tho. However, it was more like Ho Chi Minh City. My journey ended with a view of the Royal Palace, probably one of the most unique and ornate buildings I have ever seen. To see it from the water gave me a unique perspective that made me even more excited to visit.
Despite the 6 1/2-hour journey, the leisurely pace and the calm sound of the water flowing past the boat made it a memorable experience. Slower forms of travel are growing on me, and I am always excited to travel via boat. Seeing Cambodia’s rural landscape become an urban capital gave me a different opinion of the country. I would have missed out on experiencing rural Cambodia, especially if I had done the short flight from Vietnam to Cambodia. This journey is worth doing while travelling through Southeast Asia, especially if you do not have a time limit.
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