Phnom Penh’s Past

Part one of my adventure in Phnom Penh can be read here.

I had an early start on my final morning in Phnom Penh because I wanted to explore more of Cambodia’s capital before the heat became too intense. I decided to learn more about the history of Cambodia, specifically its recent history, as my first day had focused on the country’s culture. Although Cambodia has a rich ancient history, I saved that for a future adventure. Instead, I opted to focus on the recent past.

Phnom Penh has several museums scattered throughout the city. I chose the two listed in Lonely Planet’s ultimate places to visit. My destinations were the Choeung Ek Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Prison. I decided to visit the Killing Fields first, but in hindsight, I should have done it the other way around, as I learned about the places back to front. Both sites are easily accessible using a tour or public transport from Phnom Penh. I would recommend a guide for these sites, and I was fortunate enough to have one who was passionate about his nation’s history. Although, he was too graphic about the area’s history at times.

The Choeung Ek killing fields were much smaller than I had imagined. I was expecting a place like Auschwitz concentration camp. When I arrived, I was surprised to find an unassuming white wall with an ornate gate marking the entrance. The surrounding village was colourful with plenty of cafes, whilst visiting, the entire area was eerily quiet, maybe because of the time of day I visited.

Inside the killing fields, signs highlight several rules about dressing modestly and being quiet. Surprisingly, the killing fields are more like a garden, with many different paths around the site. There is a lone stupa in the centre, filled with about 5000 human skulls from those killed during the Pol Pot regime in the late 1970s. The former orchard has many signs giving information about the site where more than 18,000 prisoners were brought from Tuol Sleng and killed at Cheoung Ek. Sticking to the paths is recommended as many bodies remain in unmarked graves, and my guide advised that bones appear after heavy rain. I wandered along many wooden paths with a photographer and their weird superstition about not standing on graves (their brain was a chaotic mess during this tour). Sadly, I had to leave my guide halfway round to go on a chicken hunt (yes, you read that right) because although he was incredibly passionate about the history of his country, he kept getting way too graphic for my liking.

I was struck by the sight of nature reclaiming its space. I was pleasantly surprised to see numerous beautiful and colourful butterflies fluttering around, including a black and red one as big as my photographer’s hand. The birds were also a sight to behold, with their beautiful colours, and one even displayed a small dance for me.

The distance between the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Prison is only 10km, but I had initially thought it would be much farther. My mind was puzzled as to how such heinous acts of violence could have happened in this area. I believe both sites are crucial to visit on a trip to Phnom Penh as they demonstrate how much the country has changed in such a short time. Phnom Penh is transforming into a modern city on a vast scale. However, it was strange to see a large shopping mall built on the corner of the Killing Fields and several luxury apartment buildings and construction sites for beautiful homes lining the streets.

During my visit to Phnom Penh, I stopped at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, my second and final destination. Originally a high school, it transformed into the original Khmer Rouge security prison during the brief and terrifying rule of Pol Pot. Compared to Cheoung Ek, I found this site more informative and well laid out. The museum spreads across four school buildings, each accessible only on the ground floor. I started by exploring the cells in Building A, where I noticed the freezing temperature of each room despite the 38-degree heat outside. Some of the rooms had the names of prisoners, but many of the individuals incarcerated here will remain unknown.

Building C was the part of the museum that I found the most unpleasant. Each room contained what I can only describe as torture chambers. The past is trapped behind barbed wire, while magnolia trees allow their beautiful white flowers to fall on the terrace outside. After seeing the horrors of this building, I chose not to visit Building D, which is full of medieval torture devices.

My favourite building was B because it has a lot of information about people who survived the Khmer Rouge regime in Cambodia. The Khmer Rouge took a photo of each prisoner and kept a file with detailed information about each person. This is sentimental in a strange way because the regime aimed to dehumanize those who opposed them.

The museum is a painful reminder for the Cambodian population, especially for those who lived through the events. However, it is helpful that some of the seven survivors of the atrocities are present to share their stories, and some have even written books or created artwork displayed in Buildings B and D.

As I left the museum, I noticed a sign with a comical English translation. I’ll let the photo below do all the talking. I find it amusing when translations are not quite right. English can be a difficult language to learn, especially in a country that is new to tourism. After visiting two museums that morning, I was grateful for the sign’s light-heartedness.