If there was one area in Vietnam I was most excited to visit, it was the Mekong Delta. I love visiting off-the-beaten-path destinations that not many tourists have visited. It’s exhilarating to visit somewhere seldom written about by travel bloggers because I had no idea what I would find. I was eager to experience rural Vietnam and immerse myself in the fascinating culture.
As with the running theme of my Vietnam adventures, guess who had another early morning start. I intended to be on the road by 7 am to beat the traffic, but not before a quick breakfast and strong coffee (I am still not a morning dinosaur but at least I managed to snooze on the journey). Travelling over land has become one of my favourite forms of transport, second only to boats, as it allows me to stop in locations I would otherwise miss when flying. The journey was uneventful but the scenery was breath-taking. I couldn’t help but marvel at the incredible beauty of the dramatically changing landscapes. The endless rice fields submerged in water stretched as far as my eyes could see. The fields were divided by raised dirt paths, with ornate coffins placed in the corners, giving a unique glimpse into Vietnamese culture. I enjoyed watching the humans working in the fields and going about their daily lives, rural Vietnam is a lot more relaxed, a distinctive difference from the cities.
Halfway into the journey, I stopped at an unassuming service station (rest stop). Not expecting much I got off the bus to stretch my legs without thinking much of the area. There was a gap in between the two buildings which transported me into a tropical garden. Each time I think that Vietnam can’t surprise me anymore, I discover somewhere like this. I was transported to a tropical oasis with the most beautiful tropical flowers surrounding a large pond filled with koi carp. There was even a log bridge to cross as well, I wonder how many humans fall off this whilst doing a pose for Instagram.
Continuing the drive to the Mekong Delta, the landscape gradually became flatter and greener as I got closer to the Mekong Delta. The cities turned into smaller villages scattered along the side of the road, taking me to my destination. The road finally turned into a bridge, and I found myself driving across an expanse of brown water; finally, I had made it to the Mekong Delta. The 3km long Rach Mieu Bridge connects Vietnam with the previously isolated Ben Tre Province, an area accessible only by ferryboat until 2012. I was surprised to find such a large body of water – I had expected the Mekong Delta to be a calm, palm-lined river with only a few wooden boats floating along it.
The Mekong isn’t a river but a gigantic expanse of water and the heart of the area. The waterways breathe life into hidden parts of the province that I was excited to explore by boat. Standing at the front of the queue waiting to board, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of excitement and anticipation. I was thrilled to embark on a journey along the Mekong, eager to explore the area’s beauty. As soon as I got on the boat, I made a beeline for the side closest to the centre of the river. The stillness of the water was mesmerizing, and all I could hear was the soft splashing of water against the boat and the occasional comment from my guide. It was a stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of the busy streets of Saigon that I had left behind. I was struck by the unique charm and character of each region in Vietnam, as the country is so incredibly diverse. At that moment, I felt a sense of peace and contentment, simply sitting back and watching the world go by.
The boat took me to a local brick factory, a place I probably wouldn’t have bothered visiting if I was exploring alone. However, I found myself fascinated by the way of life in Ben Tre. Surprisingly, the bricks sell for less than £0.01 each! There are no machines or modern methods used here, just fire, water and locally found ingredients.
The highlight of my visit was meeting the furry members of the factory staff: three adorable dogs, some puppies, chickens, and even a mysterious cat wandering around the site. Although the dogs were supposed to be guard dogs, they turned out to be cuddly teddy bears! I highly recommend visiting a brick factory, especially for the dogs. The only downside is walking past the ovens, which feel like 2 million degrees! But the Mekong Delta doggos are absolute fluffy joys, and they can teach us all how to relax in the tropical humidity.
After reminding my photographer not to take the dog with us (they wouldn’t have liked to share the backpack of doom), we hopped back onto the boat. The captain was kind enough to prepare a drink for us, but we couldn’t find any glasses to use. So, I decided to try something I’ve seen on Instagram – drinking out of a fresh coconut! The coconut was heavier than I expected, so I made my photographer hold it (they could use some exercise anyway). The coconut juice (let’s just pretend that’s the real name) was surprisingly sweet, unlike the fruit itself. But it was refreshing in the intense humidity of the rainy season.
Whilst enjoying my fresh coconut, we sailed further into the Mekong Delta. Several exciting things were pointed out to me along the way. My favourite was the small waterways which were barely visible between the mangrove trees. Apparently crocodiles can be found in the Mekong, it would have been nice to see one but at the same time I am glad I didn’t. I noticed many houseboats passing by, each with a face painted in a bright colour on the front. It’s incredible what the boats were carrying, I spotted one filled with coconuts and another transporting huge bags of rice. The time sailed by (pun intended) and I was shocked at how far I had travelled when I realised it was time to get off the boat.
The boat docked at a point where there were only trees for miles around. I was excited to explore the forest, but instead, I found myself on a dirt track lined with palm trees and a few houses. I walked further into the village and realised I needed to ride a Tuk-Tuk to get to my next destination. I enjoyed an extremely hair-raising journey through villages and fields; we even raced a group of motorcyclists for part of the journey. Our destination was a coconut sweet factory, where I tried snake wine but didn’t enjoy it. The coconut sweets, on the other hand, were delicious. Leaving the small workshop to make more sweets, I walked through a small orchard-like garden to reach another branch of the Mekong Delta. I was going on another boat and again was first in line.
Sitting at the front of a sampan was a dream come true. The area was silent, and the mangrove forest appeared huge as I floated along in a tiny boat. No one dared make a noise as we wove through the mud-lined stream. The only noise came from the trees creaking and the occasional mudskipper jumping into the water for safety. I could have floated miles or gone a short way around the corner; time seemed to have disappeared in this hidden corner of Vietnam.
Exiting the sampan was challenging since the boat rocked from side to side. Thankfully, nobody fell into the water. The ladder took me from the water back onto a dirt track and once again into a place I believe was someone’s garden. I was horrified to find several chickens in tiny cages, a site I can only describe as a chicken prison. I won’t moan because it is the way of life.
I can imagine Kerala in India looks very similar to Ben Tre with the contrasting greens, browns and blue skies. The dirt track led me through more small villages; I was surprised to see the vastness of the area. The roads are underdeveloped but aren’t needed because using the river is a much more scenic mode of travel. Walking through the villages was a great way to explore more of the area, as it was surprisingly flat. However, the distance was quite challenging in the midday heat.
Lunch was a simple affair overlooking the Mekong. Restaurant Nha Hang du Lich Anh Giang provided me with delicious, freshly prepared vegetarian food. The food was all served in fine china, with wooden chopsticks used to eat; it made me chuckle as no other restaurant had given me such posh dining equipment. Dessert was a giant crispy pancake-shaped crisp. It was unique and deliciously coconutty; I love how they use local produce. Lunch was incredibly cheap, and I felt awful paying next to nothing after demolishing several plates of food (and some of my photographer’s).
The larger boat was docked right outside of the restaurant, making it easy to start exploring again after lunch. My next destination was a bee farm, but I was more worried about the rain cloud racing down the Mekong towards the farm. As we veered towards the water’s edge, a crack of thunder announced the imminent torrential downpour. Monsoon season is no joke; I have never seen rain come down so heavily. I had to dash from the boat to the outdoor pagoda, where I had to shelter with the family who owned the farm. The humans gave me a cup of honey tea whilst I became friends with their dog, and we all waited for the worst of the rain to pass.
The rain was easing slowly, so the emergency umbrella, my photographer and I followed the guide to another area on the small island. This stop included a delicious bowl of local fruit, which I devoured whilst listening to terrible singing. UNESCO protect the folk songs because they are passed through families of local people and are at risk of dying out. Sadly, the dark clouds returned, so we decided to head back to the boat.
The boat ride into My Tho was like sailing in the shower. I enjoyed watching the rain hit the river, but the humans on the opposite side of the boat all got soaked. The rain stopped as I got back on the bus; I was pleased as it meant I could look out of the window.
2 hours of driving took me to Can Tho, a river delta city and the perfect place to experience the Mekong at night. I enjoyed sleeping and watching the world from the window on my journey. My journey ended with a view of the reflected city lights twinkling in the Mekong River.
For a daily dose of dinosaur, feel free to visit my Instagram Vegan0saurus
2 thoughts on “Meandering through the Mekong Delta”