The Best Day at Sensational Széchenyi Thermal Bath

I started my day with a visit to the hotel’s pancake machine, indulging in a decidedly (un)healthy breakfast. My morning began early, as I had pre-booked tickets online for the renowned Széchenyi Thermal Bath. Admission was around 12,500 Ft (33 euros or £29), with higher prices on weekends. Booking about a week in advance ensured a good spot—while same-day payment is possible, entry is not guaranteed. Staying on Andrassy Avenue put me within easy walking distance of the baths, and the 20-minute stroll took me past several embassy buildings.

When I reached Heroes Square, a group of military personnel was raising the flag. Heroes Square is the largest I have ever visited, dominated by the Millennium Memorial, a towering statue erected in 1896 to mark Hungary’s 1000th anniversary. Flanking the square are the Museum of Fine Arts and the Kunsthalle, both housed in magnificent columned buildings. Standing in Budapest’s grandest square made me feel incredibly small amid the architectural splendour. If you’re planning a visit, arriving at the thermal baths early in the morning is best, as it provides a quieter and more relaxing experience.

After leaving the city centre, I walked into Városliget, passing by a massive ice rink that transforms into a boating lake during summer. At the heart of this sprawling park stands the famous Széchenyi Thermal Bath—a grand, yellow building dating back to 1913. Some places must be seen in person to be truly appreciated, and this is certainly one of them; photographs simply fail to capture its full grandeur.

Once inside, I found myself captivated by the historic charm of the building and impressed by the variety of pools and saunas available. I recommend bringing your own flip flops and towel, as purchasing them on-site is quite expensive. I noticed several visitors wearing dressing gowns—a smart choice, especially in winter, when transitioning between baths in freezing temperatures makes swimwear alone impractical. The baths themselves were spotless, and the staff proved helpful. However, the changing rooms were rather cramped, and the signage inside could be confusing (although maps are provided and easier to navigate).

As part of my preparation, I had read Google reviews before my visit and worried the baths might not live up to their reputation. While a few criticisms were understandable, most seemed exaggerated or unfounded. One reviewer claimed they stayed only 30 minutes, which puzzled me, given there are 18 pools and 10 saunas to explore.

I chose to have a snooze in the locker whilst my photographer enthusiastically sampled the baths, emerging as a prune in the name of research. The best outdoor pool was the one furthest from the changing rooms. The leisure pool boasted a swirling corridor, underwater bubbles, a neck shower, and water jet massages built into the seating area. Arriving early proved wise—the pools were quiet, and the floors less slippery. However, the famed outdoor chess pool was perpetually packed with what felt like thousands of Instagrammers. I felt for the locals, who just wanted to play chess and socialise in peace.

Within the grand buildings, a labyrinth of saunas and small pools awaited, including a day hospital where visitors come to alleviate various health conditions. My photographer tried pools with temperatures ranging from 28°C to 40°C—even braving the 18°C immersion pool, which left them feeling invigorated.

The medicinal pool, surrounded by stunning marble columns, was their clear favourite. The 28°C pool is supplied by the Saint Stephen Well Nr. II, commissioned in 1938, and contains calcium, magnesium, hydrocarbonate, sodium, sulphate, fluoride and metaboric acid. Its therapeutic waters are said to relieve joint degeneration, arthritis, and orthopaedic conditions. Though I won’t detail my photographer’s health issues, as someone living with chronic pain, they truly felt the benefits of the thermal baths. Their last stop was the salt inhalation steam bath, which, amusingly, made them feel like a ready salted crisp.

After drying off and preparing to explore more of Pest, we stopped at Ligeti Lángos in Varosliget Park for a hot chocolate. It was a cold but sunny day, so we warmed up inside an igloo before crossing into City Park. There, we visited the Gatehouse Tower and Vajdahunyad Castle, hoping to find the statue of mini Dracula. The castle, set behind a small lake on Széchenyi Island, is a fascinating collection of buildings constructed in Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles. Though built in 1896, its bridge and gate appeared almost medieval to me. Instead of entering the museum (one of the exhibits focused on hunting), I chose to admire the architecture and visit the small chapel.

We returned to the hotel to drop off our swimming bag, then made our way to Cafe Muse for lunch. I enjoyed the most beautiful avocado toast I’ve ever seen, paired with a cappuccino. Perhaps it’s just my impression, but I found lunch cafes in Budapest to be quite expensive.

With no plans for the rest of the afternoon, I wandered to Corvin Plaza indoor shopping mall, passing through Budapest’s Jewish Quarter. The Dohany Street Synagogue cut an imposing figure as trams rattled by. Compared to other cities I’ve visited, like Krakow, I didn’t quite connect with the atmosphere in Budapest’s Jewish Quarter. Have you ever experienced a vibe clash in a much-loved district? It made me wonder how others perceive the same place.

While my photographer shopped for Christmas in Corvin Plaza, I took a nap in the Handbag of Doom. We hadn’t realised the Indoor Market Hall was nearby, or we would have visited. On the walk back to the hotel, I passed the famous New York Cafe, but the queue stretched around the corner, so I just admired its stunning decor through the window.

Back at the hotel, I enjoyed complimentary mulled wine and cake—a welcome, budget-friendly respite from a day of sightseeing. After walking 20,000 steps, I opted for dinner close by at Menza Étterem és Kávéház, a traditional Hungarian restaurant offering inventive vegan twists on classic dishes. I savoured roasted mushrooms in mustard sauce with potato dumplings, the perfect ending to a day spent exploring Budapest.