A Slow Traveller’s Guide to Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

There’s a certain magic to Sheung Wan—a neighbourhood where the energy of Hong Kong softens, revealing winding streets lined with tradition and charm. Just west of Central’s dazzling lights, Sheung Wan is a refreshing contrast: quieter, gentler, and steeped in cultural heritage. I set out to explore at my own pace, hopping between the iconic Ding Ding tram, the efficient MTR, and stretches on foot, allowing for spontaneous stops and discoveries. While Hong Kong Island is known for its steep hills, Sheung Wan’s milder slopes make wandering here delightfully manageable. As one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods, it’s ideal for slow travellers, those with limited energy, or anyone seeking to savour Hong Kong beyond the rush.

Sheung Wan is easy to explore in small sections, with plenty of cafés and parks for breaks. Using advice from travel blogs, I created a circular route on Google Maps that would act as my Sheung Wan travel guide. I arrived by MTR from Causeway Bay and exited at A2, finding Western Market, a beautiful Edwardian building from 1906. The food stalls and shops inside didn’t interest us this time, but we enjoyed a break at Pacific Coffee nearby, which gave us a glimpse of daily life in Sheung Wan.

From there, we wandered to Sun Yat Sen Memorial Park, where the city seems to pause. The view across Victoria Harbour to Kowloon is just as impressive as at the Avenue of Stars, but with a fraction of the crowds. I love this park’s calm—an oasis for picnics, people-watching, or simply soaking up the contrast of skyscrapers rising above green lawns. After recharging, I followed my curiosity to Ko Shing Street. The air here is thick with herbal aromas from traditional Chinese medicine shops, where shelves are lined with mysterious roots, dried seafood, and even shark fins—a glimpse into Hong Kong’s living traditions.

Queens Road West offered a mix of teas, ceramics, and homeware treasures. As the hills grew steeper, I slowed down and visited Hollywood Road Park, an oasis with pagodas and turtles by ponds—echoing classic Chinese gardens. The peaceful break was much needed, especially as my photographer was managing back pain during our walk.

Cat Street flea market came next, a 180-year-old bazaar famed for antiques and curios. Despite its historical allure, I found the market a bit underwhelming and surprisingly packed for a Tuesday afternoon, which caught me off guard. I expected a treasure trove of unique finds, but was greeted instead by a sea of indistinct trinkets. One stall, with its ornate display, lured me in with promises of rare collectables, yet upon closer inspection, it held only mass-produced souvenirs. This disparity between expectation and reality left me eager to continue my exploration. Rather than linger, I set off in search of Queen Sophie’s bakery, choosing a winding route to avoid Sheung Wan’s steeper hills and discovering quiet alleys along the way.

Queen Sophie’s bakery is a hidden gem tucked away on a quiet street—so small, you might miss it if you don’t know where to look. After finally finding it (on my second visit!), I snagged a warm, flaky egg tart and made my way up Ladder Street to Man Mo Temple. Sitting in the sunshine, savouring the pastry’s buttery crust, I took in the temple’s intricate details. Despite its fame, Man Mo Temple is far more intimate and atmospheric than guidebooks suggest—a quiet space filled with incense and history.

To end the day, I treated myself to dinner at Man Mo Dim Sum, savouring innovative dim sum that blends traditional Cantonese cuisine with a modern, French flair—a fitting finale to a day immersed in Sheung Wan’s unique blend of old and new. I chose to take a slower form of travel back to my hotel, riding on the infamous Ding Ding through the bright lights of Hong Kong Island.