Vietnam has a turbulent history, and after learning about it in the War Remnants Museum, I decided I had to see Cu Chi Tunnels for myself. Spanning from Ho Chi Minh City to Cambodia, the underground network of hand-dug tunnels is a tribute to Vietnamese tenacity. I chose to visit the tunnels at Ben Dinh because they are an easy travelling distance from Saigon. Tunnels at Ben Duoc are quieter but more difficult to get to. I’ve heard the travel is worth it since the tunnels here are unchanged from the days of the war. Unlike Ben Dinh, where the tunnels are wider to accommodate visitors. The main reason anyone visits Ho Chi Minh City to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels is to experience the unique architecture that formed accommodation, meeting and transport in a place hidden from the US troops.
How to get there
Cu Chi Tunnels at Ben Dinh are reachable using various modes of transport, but it is easiest to join a tour of the area. I was on an organised tour, and it removed the stress of travelling to and understanding the area’s history. The distance to the tunnels from District 1 in HCMC is only 45km, but the traffic is insane. I left the hotel early in the morning, and it took just under two hours. Though it was a long drive, I enjoyed watching the chaotic streets turn into greenery when we reached the outskirts of HCMC.
Other options to get to Cu Chi Tunnels include taxis, the more expensive option due to the travel time. The downside is you would also have to pay for a guide to take you around the tunnels. Public transport can get you to the tunnels, but it is also a lengthy process that I don’t think is worth it to save a few pounds.
History
The tunnels were first dug in this area in the late 1940s to store weapons of the anti-colonial Viet Minh but progressed into hiding places for the fighters after the war began in 1954. The Vietnam War occurred because the North wanted to reunite the country under communist rule. The tunnels kept expanding until 1965, when 250km of tunnels spread under Cu Chi to Saigon River, an area known as the Iron Triangle. The South fought against this with the help of American troops, but the Northern Vietnamese army outwitted them. The resistance fighters even had a tunnel running underneath an American Army base. The American Army tried many tactics, but the Vietnamese used simple things to confuse them. The scent of resistance fighters in the tunnels was masked using stolen clothes from American soldiers, stopping the sniffer dogs from doing their job. The war lasted until 1975 when North Vietnam won and Vietnam became a united communist country.
Nature
The area has had a turbulent history, but nature has taken over and shown its resilience. No matter what humans do, nature will always win and Ben Dinh is no exception. My guide was incredibly interesting and knew everything about the flora and fauna in the area.
Both my photographer and I agree that we were most excited to explore the place and try to spot some animals. And boy, did we! My personal favourite was the giant centipede, which was so fast and agile. The way he scurried along the leaves without making a sound, he could have given Usain Bolt a run for his money!
I spotted a few lizards running up the trees to eat a few ants for lunch. Red ants were transporting a leaf somewhere; I’m always amazed at how such a small creature can carry something so heavy (and walk in a line without getting distracted).
Fortunately, no cockroaches reside in the tunnels anymore. They were all removed when the area became open for tourism. I’m glad because it reduces the risk of a roach hitching a ride on your back as you crawl through the tunnels. However, my guide mentioned that scorpions and snakes live in the area, so there is still a risk of creepy crawlies hitching a ride.
The monkeys in the area were quite cheeky, using their ninja-like skills to sneak some tapioca root and pandan tea for lunch. I mean, who wouldn’t want to hang out with these intelligent creatures? Watching them jump through the trees was so much fun; they have incredible acrobatic techniques.
Tourist bits
I was greeted by a detailed map under a thatched roof when I arrived at Ben Dinh. As usual, I had no idea what to expect, and the vast site made me dizzy. The site was so huge I was pleased to have a guide so I wouldn’t get lost in the maze-like complex. The tunnels were so complex that I struggled to follow the direction of them. Some tunnels had multiple floors used for a range of activities of daily living.
From here, I headed out into the bush and the stifling Vietnamese heat. At 9:30 am, I felt like I was walking on the surface of the sun. Whilst walking along the designated trail, my guide pointed out concealed trap doors, hidden entry points and abandoned termite mounds adapted to be ventilation (like a chimney). I missed some of the traps, so I need some Indiana Jones training to be more observant and less clumsy. My tour group had some brave humans who went into the tiny hiding spaces in the ground. We all know I am a giant chicken and chose to stay outside. I looked down into some of the open tunnel entrances and was surprised that I couldn’t see the bottom. It’s easy to forget the tunnels were built by hand when you see them.
As we walked along, my guide pointed out concealed trap doors and lethal booby traps. The booby traps ranged from absolutely terrifying to levels of inhumane torture I could never imagine (think medieval torture on steroids).
The firing range halfway around the route was the worst part of the area (in my opinion). It was like someone had decided to bring the sounds of World War III to haunt the memories of the area’s violent past. I get they want to make the experience authentic, but I couldn’t help but feel like I was in the middle of a high-stakes game of paintball. With rounds of AK-47s firing in the distance, I felt like I had to dodge imaginary bullets the whole way around.
I went into one of the tunnels which was short in length and widened for tourists. The tunnel began at the bottom of a staircase and gradually reduced in size. My photographer could still stand in a hunched position at this point. I liked this because I could easily escape back up the stair case when the claustrophobia started to take over. The second part of the tunnel was small, cramped and dark – the ultimate test of keeping your fears at bay.
The highlight of the tour for me was learning about the ingenious ways in which unexploded ordnance was converted into lethal mines and traps. It was fascinating to see how resourceful and creative the Vietnamese people were during the war. Using the rubber from the tyres of military vehicles to make sandals was an ingenious use of recycled materials. All in all, it was a memorable experience that I won’t forget anytime soon!
Travel tips
- Be prepared for a long day of travelling. HCMC traffic is no joke no matter what time of day you go. I didn’t mind the drive as I do enjoy watching the world go by my window.
- To avoid getting eaten alive by the local insect population, make sure to wear pants with a cuff at the ankles or douse yourself in bug spray.
- Wear comfortable shoes – the terrain is rocky and also muddy at times.
- Wear a hat – there is little shade from the sun, even underneath the trees.
- Take water, there is a place to buy water at the shooting range but it is a 45-minute walk to get there.
- Consider the time of year you choose to visit. I visited during rainy season and the humidity was around 99%. Luckily, it stayed dry but the stifling heat made walking challenging at certain points. I did think my photographer was going to melt at one point.
- Consider a tour which goes to more than one location, there are a few incredible temples close by. I did a tour which included lunch at a beautiful riverside restaurant. I found walking around Cu Chi Tunnels to be hungry work.
There are some great tour options available on Get your Guide (I get a small commission if you book through the link).
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