Mong Kok, one of the most densely populated neighbourhoods on the planet, is an unforgettable experience for any visitor to Hong Kong. Here, earthy, neon-lit streets pulse with life, a stark contrast to the sleek modernity of Central or the tranquil green spaces of Lantau Island. Skyscrapers tower overhead, packed so tightly that I felt dwarfed by their presence. The air buzzed with heavy traffic and the irresistible aromas wafting from street food vendors.
At the heart of Mong Kok lies the sprawling Ladies Market, a bustling labyrinth of stalls. My first visit during the pandemic felt eerie and half-empty, so I was eager to see it return to its vibrant self. To shake things up, I hopped on the MTR to Olympic Station, charting a new course into Mong Kok. This route led me through the lively Nelson Street Wet Market, a slice of traditional Hong Kong that overwhelms the senses with its dizzying variety—some seafood even wriggling with life!
Of course, I couldn’t resist stopping at Halfway Coffee, tucked on the corner of Soy Street, for a much-needed break. This charming cafe serves its drinks in delicate fine china, a touch of old-world elegance amid the urban buzz. With no wifi and a tranquil atmosphere, it feels like a hidden oasis—one that most of Mong Kok’s crowds seem to miss. Recharged and content, I left my peaceful retreat behind and plunged back into the vibrant chaos of the Ladies Market on Tung Choi Street, ready to explore its endless treasures.
For once, my photographer wasn’t searching for souvenirs—they were on a mission to find a tiny bakery tucked away in the shadows of the Ladies Market. Egg Puffs Pufflife (蛋仔記雞蛋仔) had become something of an Instagram sensation, and after seeing it recommended countless times, I was eager to try it myself. When my egg puff arrived, I was stunned by its size: golden and crisp on the outside, while the inside was soft and pillowy, reminiscent of a freshly baked sponge cake but with a subtler sweetness. Street food usually makes me hesitate, but the line for this bakery snaked down the street—a sure sign it would be worth the leap.
I savoured my lunch al fresco, weaving through Mong Kok’s neon-lit maze as the city buzzed around me. Eventually, I found myself on the legendary Nathan Road, eager to show my photographer the magnificent banyan trees that line the street. These ancient giants still captivate me; their tangled roots and sprawling branches make it seem as if they’re slowly strolling down the pavement. Drawn by curiosity, I slipped into the serene Yaumatei Tin Hau Temple, tucked away in a leafy park. This temple complex, a harmonious blend of five shrines dedicated to various deities—including Tin Hau, the revered Goddess of the Sea—never fails to impress. I’m always drawn to Mazu’s temples when travelling in Asia, and their intricate beauty never disappoints. It’s remarkable to think this complex once stood on the Harbourfront; imagining Hong Kong’s ever-shifting landscape makes the city’s past feel almost mythical.
My next stop was Yue Hwa Department Store, a treasure trove spanning seven stories, each packed with fascinating Chinese goods. I always look forward to wandering its sprawling aisles, discovering unique Chinese snacks and quirky souvenirs I’ve never seen before. The sprawling food floor is a treasure trove, brimming with flavours and aromas that invite you to linger. Each level offers its own speciality—delicate teas, shelves of traditional medicines, and an array of charming household goods. Longtime readers might recall my mischievous moment here in 2022, when I convinced my photographer to try those fiery ginger biscuits—this is the very place I found them! After picking up a few new treats and souvenirs, we stepped back onto the bustle of Nathan Road. With the sun shining brightly, I decided to make the most of the afternoon and walk all the way to the Avenue of Stars.
The Avenue of Stars is arguably Hong Kong’s most iconic destination, drawing visitors eager to capture the sweeping views of Victoria Harbour. After soaking in the waterfront scenery, I couldn’t resist exploring the nearby K11 Musea—a shopping mall that feels more like a sprawling contemporary art gallery. Inside, I wandered past luxury boutiques, stylish cafes, and eye-catching art installations at every turn. To my surprise, I found myself genuinely enjoying the experience. The highlight was the vast atrium, where a massive glass bowl and cascades of vivid red flowers created a breathtaking centrepiece.
After a quick dinner at Din Tai Fung, I strolled along the Avenue of Stars, eager to take in the dazzling lights of Victoria Harbour. The water shimmered with a rainbow of colours reflected from the illuminated skyline, each building casting its own hue across the bay. As I lingered by the waterfront, I was delighted to catch sight of the iconic red-sailed junk gliding silently by, its vibrant sails glowing against the night. I walked along the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront to the Star Ferry terminal to take the short boat ride back to my hotel.
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